____________________________________________________________________________

1. General & Modification Info
2. About the Warp
3. Board Settings
4. Using the Warp with Big Bore Paint
5. Using the Warp with Small Bore Paint
6. Mounting the Warp Hose Securely
7. Mounting the Warp
8. Warp Hints
9. Lubing the Warp
10. How-to Warp Mods
11. Dyeing the Warp Shells
12. AGD Warp vs. Pro-team Warp

___________________________________________________________________________

1. General & Modification Info

Warp Manual
overview 
what you need
jumpers
sensor
run in
maintenance
batteries
feed tube
hopper
lefties
automag bodies

Warp detailed view

Intellifeed to Warp Interface

Hopper Mods for Warp Feed

12v mod

Warp to Angel Interface

PTP 12v drop-in kit

___________________________________________________________________________

2. About the Warp
The warp is a great way to eliminate hopper hits, that's what it was designed for, the fact that it's fast is a bonus. A 9v warp feeds @ about 16BPS, a 12v around 24.

The warp weighs 1 pound and is well balanced once on the marker. It can feed paint at any angle using it's friction disks, although only in bursts. The warp needs to stay fed to keep the balls moving, once there is not enough balls in the warp, the warp does not have enough mass to throw up the feed hose to the marker. That's why an Electronic hopper(i.e. Revy, Rico, HALO) is recommended to feed your warp. If you outshoot your warp, then you have most likely outshot your hopper.

The warp is easy to maintain and can be mounted on pretty much any marker. The things you need to keep in mind is a good ball stack, fresh batteries, and lubing your friction disks every now and then(you can use a paintball, or oil for this, don't over do it though).

It's not a good idea to use different types of paint in the warp at the same time. Different bore paint won't let the friction disks grip all the paint in the wheel properly and that can lead to the warp not feeding properly.

The warp friction disks should be straight, avoid leaving paint in the warp when it's not in use, this can make the friction disks spread apart and impair the ability to grip the paint properly. If your friction disks are not straight and have begun to spread apart you can flip them around.

* New Warp's need to be broken in when new(see manual/Runin).

___________________________________________________________________________

3. Board Settings
Depending on the set-up your running, there are a few different ways to rig up your Warpfeed so it can run better using the jumpers on the warpfeed board.

The right set of jumpers control what activate the warp(see warp manual).

with an Iframe- place a jumper on the top(neg.) pins

with an Emag- place a jumper on the mid(pos.) pins (The connection runs into the center plug on the Emag board with a Emag/warp interface cable found at the Airgun online store)

using the vib. sensor- place a jumper on the bottom(vib.) pins(the spare jumper may be placed in the mid(pos.) pins for storage(it comes like this from the factory).

The set of four jumpers on the left of the board control dwell time(see warp manual) you want to set your dwell time to 1/4 turn, no less.

Connected horizontally, they are in the storage position and do nothing. Once mounted vertically, they lower dwell time in equal amounts. You usually end up having to move two vertical and keeping two horizontal, usually.

The potentiometer (blue dial) controls how sensitive the vibration sensor is. This only matters when not intellifeeding the warp. To make it more sensitive, turn clockwise. Less sensitive, turn counter-clockwise.

___________________________________________________________________________

4. Using the Warp with Big Bore Paint
The warp friction disks are spaced for most bore paint. If your having trouble using big bore paint, you can add a friction disk "spacer" or "shim" to space the friction disks further apart. This may give you problems with smaller bore paint though.

As an example I made a stencil out of cardboard from a cereal box.

If you can tell from the pic, I placed the shim between the friction disks to spread them apart a bit.

You can just barely see the shim once the wheel is assembled, the friction disks are now a bit further apart and should help with bigger paint. The thickness or the amount of shims you use depends on the paint. I have personally never had to use this method so the amount you spread the disks apart should be little by little with a lot of testing to make sure you dont go too far.

___________________________________________________________________________

5. Using the Warp with Small Bore Paint

Like with the Friction disk spacer method, I have also never had to personally use this trick for smaller bore paint, however I have recommended it to other people who have had great success with it.

Using electrical tape, I made a thin line around the inner sides that come in contact with the friction disks. Do not use cardboard for this one, it's too thick, the tape will do just fine. Also be careful not to over tighten the screws when you reassemble the friction drive, it will make even more of a difference.

Even if you dont see a physical difference, it's there. I recommend testing it out before tightening the screws even more. The tape alone without tightening the screws too much will bring the disks about .004-.007" closer together.

___________________________________________________________________________

6. Mounting the Warp Hose Securely
Some problems you may run into or be familiar with is the hose being to loose and falling off the adaptor or the adaptor falling off the body.

To solve the hose to adaptor fit problem, simply use the big black o'rings supplied with the warp feed and wrap 2-3 around the ends of the hose. This will give a good snug fit. If you don't have the o'rings you can purchase some from the Airgun online store.(you might find some that fit from your local hardware store)

If you want to give the adaptor a snug fit to the body, you can get your hands on some friction tape sold and any hardware store. Simply cut a thin short strip not even long enough to loop the bottom of the powerfeed tube and that should be enough. This can be done so the tape is not seen once the adaptor is on.

Another thing you can do for a great stable hose is run it through your revy, it will not only lock the hose in place but the revy won't fly off either. This method also protects your ballstack from a hit that may either knock your hose off or break a few balls in the hose.

here's a pic of the hose with the rings.

___________________________________________________________________________

7. Mounting the Warp
Mounting the warp is not hard at all but I made this section for those who just was to see a picture before doing anything.

The mounting plate goes in between the bottom of the gripframe and the drop forward(or rail mount in this case). Get an angle your happy with and tighten.

If your going to intellifeed the warp, now is the time to mount the wires(For the Intelliframe, see "Intellifeed to Warp Interface" in section General & Modification info. For the Emag/Xmag plug in the Emag/Warp interface cable in the center plug of the Emag/Xmag board. Either way you do it, you must also check and move your warp board jumpers, see section Board Jumpers.)

The next step is to secure the warp on the mounting plate. Do a quick angle test with your hopper to make sure the angle you tighten it in, will give you enough space for your thumb and to open the hopper lid. After tightening the warp to the plate, secure the hose, then the hopper.

Here is a pic of an AGD elbow dremeled down to fit inside a vert feed body.

Here is the basic finished product.

___________________________________________________________________________

8. Warp Hints

1. The things you need to keep in mind is a good ball stack, fresh batteries, and lubing your friction disks everytime before play.
2. Make sure the warp hose isn't being pinched in any way, this will slow down your feed rate drastically.(Yes it can bend but make sure it stays round.)
3. Keep the warp mounted nice and tight, if your running it off vibration, this will help transfer the recoil from the marker.
4. Dont even try running 18v straight into the board.
5. If using the warp on a mag with a powerfeed body, make sure your plug is one of the newer parabolic versions and is in the correct position.
6. The warp board screws strip very easily - there's your warning.
7. Dont mess with the vibration sensor. If you remove it, you'll have to buy a new one.
8. If you have the AGD 90* elbow that mounts around the powerfeed body but you need it to mount inside of a feedneck, just dremel off the tightening clamp and round it off, fits right in nice and snug.
9. Use a hopper spacer to get the revy to fit securely. If you have already sanded your Halo for a vert feedneck and it no longer fits securely in your warp you can use a bit of paper in between the blue neck and the outer shell to make it fit tighter.

___________________________________________________________________________

9. Lubing the Warp
I personally use the same oil I use on my marker
cover my finger in oil
take the bottom hose-warp adaptor off
stick my finger in
use the handy white button to turn the disks
I repeat till both disks are nice and slippery all the way around (dont over do it)

Do this everyday before play. You should oil your marker at the beginning of every day too.

* Use any oil that does not contain Petroleum. Same for your marker.

___________________________________________________________________________

10. How-to Warp Mods

DO NOT do any mods to your warp if you dont know what you are doing. It's not hard to mess something up and end up with a broken or messed up warp. I am NOT responsible for any errors you make. ANY mod you do instantly voids your warranty with Airgun. The purpose of this section is to inform people  who know what they are doing but needed somewhere to start from. If you want a mod done to it, send it to me(I warranty my own work, but I charge for your sloppy work) or someone who knows what they are doing. If you DO really know what you are doing but just need a little advice or have a question, contact me. I'll do my best to help you out. Stock warps work AWESOME and dont need anything done to them to work right.

On/Off Switch -
Mounting a switch on the warp is a great idea. The warp without a switch will drain about 4v per month off a battery. With a switch installed, simply make sure it's off and your batteries are saved. I use a mini toggle switch from Radio Shack. To install, run the red wire from the board into one of the switch leads, then run the red wire from the battery clip(If you throw in a switch, while your at it, throw in some heavy duty battery clips) to the other or middle lead. Solder the wire to the lead to make sure you have a good secure contact, then warm up some heat-shrink tubing over the connection. 

This is where I mount it.

With the switch in.

Bigcell (with switch) -

I recommend this mod over the 12v mod. This mod runs two batteries in parallel turning them into one big battery(big cell). The warp will still run at 9v but at double the amperage. This gives the warp another 1-2bps along with twice the clean battery life. You wont rightfully outshoot it. Just run black to black and red to red when hooking this up to the wires coming from the board. (I sale these premade dropin kits for $11 shipped, they also come with the heat shrink tubing you will need to finish the job.)

12v mod drop-in -

This mod will definitely feed a warp faster than you can shoot. If you cant tell how to do this from the pic, you probably shouldn't be trying it. Sometimes too much noise gets through the reg and makes the warp constantly spin. In this case you may need to throw a 100uf capacitor(on the output side of the reg).

L.E.D.s -

No pic for this one, there's too many places to mount the l.e.d.(IMO, they are a massive waste of power). However, when mounting, always rig same color wires from the warp board side.

Misc -

There is of course so many other things you can do, however most of them are either a waste of power or too easy to mess up for me to post up. If you want something else done, ask me about it and maybe I can help you out.

___________________________________________________________________________

11. Dyeing the Warp Shells

Same as you would a revy. Dont worry about the sensor, it wont ruin. Just make sure it's dry before trying to use it again. Boil some water in a big pot, pour in some Rit dye, dip the shells in till you have a color you like, take em out and dry.(all this is at your own risk). If done properly, you can come up with some nice looking fades.

___________________________________________________________________________

12. AGD Warp vs. Pro-team Warp

Pro-team pretty much used the same design as Airgun. The PTP version basically has a different mounting system that offers a different angle but also has the vib sensor on the mount(I've personally seen a lot of problems with the sensor on the outside.) It does also come with a 90* elbow that mounts inside of feednecks rather than Airguns elbow that is designed to mount around a powerfeed body. Considering the price difference, I'd recommend buying the AGD warp and if you must mount the elbow inside a feedneck rather than around it, just dremel off the tightening clamp and round it off, fits right in nice and snug.

If you want a different mounting angle with your AGD warp mount, you can drill a little into the screw mount paths to extend them. You'll have to do this if you want to mount the warp on a spyder.